Le Sirenuse, Positano
If you’ve spent anytime at all on Pinterest or Instagram in the last few years (so, all of us), you’ll have seen the Italian village of Positano well-documented. One of the most photographed towns of the Amalfi Coast, Positano is postcard-perfect with pastel-coloured houses descending down the cliffs, alleyways straining with tutti-frutti ceramic stores and rails of fluttering white linen dresses and no-end of great spots to tuck into spaghetti vongole and peach bellinis. I’ve long wanted to go but I’ve never quite found the right time; summer too busy for my liking, winter too chilly. But this year I found a spare weekend in the middle of October and realised it would be the ideal time to finally make the pilgrimage to Positano. I’ll concede I was kind of hesitant as to whether or not I was going to love it and was worried it would be slightly ruined by tourists and maybe, dare I say it, a little bit flash. Turns out October was the absolute dream time to go and it was neither of these things… The weather was still warm enough to sunbathe and the whole town still had a buzz to it without having to file down the streets like sardines or wait for hours for a table at a restaurant.
I’ll admit, one of the main reasons I really wanted to go to Positano was for one very special hotel in the town, Le Sireneuse. I’ve been eyeing up this beautiful hotel for years so was beyond excited to finally get the chance to go. If you were to imagine the most charming, perfect Italian riviera hotel, this would be it. From the beautiful pool and restaurant with one of the best vantage points in Positano, to the understated, elegant interiors and endless tile porn throughout, I immediately fell for this hotel. It’s sophisticated without out being overly luxe and feels so timeless, like something that could have featured in an EM Forster novel once upon a time. We arrived lunchtime on Saturday and headed straight for a table in the sun for melon and prosciutto and ravioli before collapsing to digest the whole lot by the pool. The staff were eternally charming, the restaurant eternally delicious and the the chinaware so covetable I couldn’t stop myself going to the ceramics store over the road and buying so much I had to have it shipped home (worth every penny just FYI).
On the Sunday we went to Da Adolfo for lunch which was probably the simplest and yet my favourite meal we had on the whole trip. You have to get a boat there (a red boat from the main jetty with a red, wooden fish on it) and thanks to the time of year we were there, we were able to get some sun and then amble up to get a table without any problems. The spaghetti and pesto was so, so good and any of the seafood was really fresh and perfectly grilled. It was exactly my kind of restaurant, really chilled, rustic but delicious. Other places we ate were Ristorante Max (ask for a table in the pretty garden), Chez Black (only worth it for a chilled lunch of pizza and salad I think) and the ridiculously lavish, romantic La Sponda at Le Sirenuse. In short, I ate pasta and drank wine at every meal but breakfast the entire weekend and loved every minute of it. We were treated to one of the best sunsets I’ve ever seen (another perk of travelling in Autumn; those fiery skies are always more saturated) while sipping negronis on the terrace of Le Sireneuse (Harry’s Bar next door is well worth a sundowner too just be prepared to queue) and London’s stresses felt like a million miles away.
Le Sireneuse is undoubtedly expensive and a real treat, but if you can find a special occasion or a spare weekend to justify it, I really can’t recommend it enough. It was so romantic and so special, I felt a million times more chic than I really am just in being there and drinking wine looking over that view. It really made me realise the joys of travelling out of season too; look beyond July and August and think about going to super-popular, pricey places in April or October and I swear you’ll have a better experience all round.
Green spotty dress | Faithfull the brand (Coming soon)
Yellow shirt and trousers | Faithfull the brand (Coming soon)
Gold large hoops | Celine
Black studded sandals | Isabel Marant
Blue floral top | Faithfull the Brand (Coming soon)
White linen trousers | Faithfull the brand (Coming soon)
Shell sandals | Ancient Greek
Ditsy floral long sleeve playsuit | Zimmerman
Hexagonal sunglasses | Chloe
Heart skirt | Realisation Par
White linen top | Palmier
Cherry handbag | Susan Alexandra
Woven mini bag | Loeffler Randall